船靠智利砂點港/莊峻華

船靠智利砂點港/莊峻華

智利砂點港，朋塔阿連那斯，是該國最南城市，附近人口約十三萬人，

我們在海上行駛三日，經過太平洋內海，山巒遠處，幾點雪跡，但仍舊

不是山峰積雪，我上岸後開使逛街，找上幾家銀行，嘗試現金卡，仍然

不管用，反正這是智利終站，不再需要智利披索，找到一家雜貨店，買

上十粒牛奶軟糖備用，老街四四方方，很快走盡，正想回船，又在街頭

遇上巴西之露西雅，她拉上我，攔上一計程車，說是逛街去，她先問妥

兩人車資，然後先回車行報告，再行出發，我在們經海岸公路，到一魚

港碼頭，然後再到自由港區，就是免稅區，司機交代如何搭車回去港口

一家豪華餐廳，然後再逛幾家商圈市場，她想再逛，我就先行上船。

砂點市主要政府機關，就是監獄，把犯人放逐到邊疆，舉世皆然，此城

一度易名為麥哲倫，為記念這位航海家，經過南美南端，有一海峽因此

命名，後來又恢復原名，離南極冰洲僅九百哩。市容樸實無華，智利城

市，無甚公共運輸，多半是台灣過去之叫客計程車，隨時上下車，司機

兼車掌，也有包車情況，露西雅攔下第一輛，是位資深老司機，一

路上帶我們參觀新舊住宅區，這像是美國公眾住宅，但不是高樓大廈，而

是獨門獨院，內外院面積不大，居民廉價向政府購買，分期付款，不一定

是貧民，多半是中等收入以上家庭，他提到蜜契兒˙巴克列總統，她之德

政，其實他也歸功於其前任，開始此德政，他說她之首任內，較為積極，

露西雅翻譯老司機語，她說此人老紳士也，子女均長大成人，律師教師等

專業。

我年輕時讀過巴克列父親之故事，他是左派艾倫德總統親信，命為首都糧

相，解決糧荒，季辛吉和中情局，策劃右派軍人政變，艾倫德遭殺，巴克

列入獄被整肅而亡，女兒蜜契兒，醫科畢業，能言多種歐洲語言，軍事獨

裁結速後從政，郵輪上南美洲講堂，朱蒙特教授也特別提到她。老司機應

我們請求，在海岸路旁停車，讓我拍攝幾張海鳥相片留念。經一魚港後，

他指遠處新穎建築，是砂點區醫院中心，提供老人醫療服裝。他放下我們

在郊區免稅自由港，讓露西雅購買禮物，我看中一頂牛仔帽，在中國製造。

我們按老司機指示，走到大路上等候計程車，座滿就車開，沿途有人上下，

回到海港老街餐廳，露西雅要吃飯，於是我破例花錢在船外用餐，她點上

龍蝦，鮑魚，飲水，和橙汁，十分油膩但可口，又有紅酒佐膳，她付現金

，我付信用卡其餘，結果是九十美元，讓我心疼不已，決定以後回復獨行

街頭，不再與她為伍。

Fun bridge game on board/Carlos Pueblo

Fun bridge game on board/Carlos Pueblo

I was invited to a fun bridge game on a multi purposes bar on Deck 13 next

to a steak house where I intended to invite my friend for dinner. Actually, I was

checking the location of that restaurant and walked into the bar and made up

to the fourth on the table. It was very awkward that I only learned how to play

bridge when I was at high school one summer back to the 60’s. I knew how to

count the points and after the first game under their instruction that I could open

my call, response to my partner’s call, and figure out how to exhaust all trump

cards at all hands.

One partner is a second generation of Chinese living in San Francisco and the other

two are American. We played very basic game at least I knew that I did fit into their

level of game until several days later an advanced player walked in to replace me.

Lincoln, the retired Chinese American engineer told me that I should come in some time

to watch this guy to play. I didn’t go; however, Lincoln and his wife became my good

friend on board almost everywhere we met.

The bar where we played was really not open during day time. It was open for some

Leisure program such as bridge, chess, mah-jong, and some painting classes with

an instruction of a painting artist and participants to pay materials. This is one of the

program which Sandra’s department was in charge of.

I have met so many retirees on board and only they can afford this kind of travel.

Lincoln and his wife would continue their trip to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. I was making

this trip at the last minute and could not make the visa available.

     

船上橋牌局/莊峻華

船上橋牌局/莊峻華

因為要帶露西雅晚餐，所以白日到十三層，勘察地形地物，有一酒吧

白天空閒，三人圍成一桌橋牌局三缺一，於是邀我湊上一腳，我約有

半世紀，未成打過橋牌，十歲曾經幫四位青年工程師洗牌發牌，懂些

橋牌道理，應該是高中時代，但也從未喜好過，三位中，一位是住舊

金山之退休土木工程師，兩位也是退休美國人，只是未調查身份，都

是紳士，我們開始輪流當夥伴，第一次後，他們就看出我之破綻，教

我數點數回叫或起叫牌，然後就是數王牌張數洗盡，雖不上手，但也

差強人意，時常應邀牌局，一直到有位高手加入。

這位華裔美人，後來就常在船上碰面，十分親切，其夫人喜歡韻律舞

蹈活動。他有林肯當作名字，是第二代，在加州政府退休，然後又在

旅行社工作，有我不知之內幕，如購買郵輪股票，也有優待，其他者

我因有多次經驗，又非便宜船價不可，方法引起其興趣，回家後誤置

其電郵資料，希望有朝一日出現。

郵輪節目部，也提供麻將牌，給有興趣者，也教人繪畫，並且提供材

料，材料收費，但講師由節目部安排，都在此酒吧大房間舉行。我很

喜歡這位林肯，和其夫人，他是慢條斯理之紳士，據說喜歡漢堡包，

年輕時後，岳父母大人來訪住，夫人烹煮廣東料理，有時後他需要外

漢堡解饞。抵達阿根廷後，他們繼續兩週，前往巴西聖保羅港。

Lucia of Brazil/Carlos Pueblo

Lucia of Brazil/Carlos Pueblo

At the cruise terminal waiting room of Valparaiso, Chile, I sat next to

Lucia and her friend. Later we met again in the Garden Café on Deck 12

and became good friends on board. She ran into me on a street at

Puerto Chacabuco and took me to the town of Coyhaique on an empty

returning bus. She is a widow of a Chilean spouse and speaks good Spanish.

Her group left her earlier to Coyhaiwue and she hoped to join them there.

The bus driver nicely chatted with her about the town, beautiful Simpson

River and big correction facility. She translated every sentence to me

because of my insufficient Spanish. She wrote a note to the driver and explained

to me that he asked her some medicine. She was a physician before retirement

in both Brazil and Chili. Later I learned that she was a plastic surgeon. We went

to a famous restaurant for empanadas, a kind of baking food with delicious inside.

We couldn’t find a seat on both restaurants and finally got one piece and could

only sat at a bench in a pretty city park. Several couples inside the first restaurant

came out and chatted with her about her specialty.

Then, she likes to have a beer. We walked toward the city blocks and found a

Japanese restaurant. We met a room full of cruise entertainers and beautiful Sandra

of the cruise program staff and her boyfriend, co-worker. The restaurant allowed me

to break my second US$100, first one was on the express bus from San Diego Airport

to downtown. Now I remember the sweet senior couple to guide me to my hostel on

two subway trains. I invited her to have some benefit of my platinum member status,

such as behind the scene tour, two free paid restaurants, a free drink party, etc. We had

had two dinners with her and her roommate separately; however, we got stop on the

behind the scene tour due to non-registered and then she refused to be embarrassed

one more time with me for the free drink even though I got an OK from the CruiseNext

manager, Paroma, another fine character on the ship.

Surprisingly, I ran into her again on the next disembark port of Punta Arena three days later

and had had another wonderful day, a taxi ride of the city and a delicious seafood late lunch.

She liked to dance every night and finally participating a farewell dancing program performed

by fellow talent passengers directed by Sandra, the same charming Filipino girl we ran into at

the Japanese restaurant. Because I was short of my cash and didn’t resolve my ATM card and

mostly not expecting to spend money at all, I avoided her invitation to join her on every other

stop since then, yet it was interesting.

巴西醫生露西雅/莊峻華

巴西醫生露西雅/莊峻華

我在智利巴港侯船，遇見露西雅和她同伴，在自助餐廳又遇見，開

始熟悉，第二站在查港街頭又巧遇，同行附近口伊亥克鎮，始知她

是位退休整形醫生，同伴是位青梅竹馬，兩位都是寡婦，與我同更

，露西雅也是旅行者，曾經七次旅行中國，也到過台灣，她們住在

第五甲板，認識後我邀她們，分別參加牛排餐廳，因此有其房間號

碼，剛好是去年我們阿拉斯加旅行房間正對面，她們一夥四位，另

兩位是夫妻。有趣者為，連續兩次靠岸，她都有意無義，被放粉鳥

落單，又都在港口老街相遇，帶我搭車逛街，非常有趣，因為她喜

歡消費，與我之吝嗇習性相違，所以我就不敢再與她同行，她之夥

伴，也不同意在外飲食，她是位巴西聯邦政府經濟部，退休官員，

有三位成年已婚子女。

讓我回到上篇船靠查港，她攔下一輛巴士到口伊鎮，司機與她交談，

問她藥名，也介紹河流和大監獄，河流我們經過，就是辛普森河，他

說曾在首都工作，後來還是決定返鄉工作，因為鄉村生活單純，露西

雅一一翻譯，因我西語不若英語能力。吃過南美之肉餅，恩潘那達，

她就想喝啤酒，於是我們就逛到一家日本餐餐廳，喝杯啤酒，小餐廳

都是船上客人，一大桌是演藝歌舞年輕人，一桌是美麗之活動部職員

，珊翠亞和其男友同事，後來我這位活潑露西雅，參加船活動部舉辦

之近代舞表演，大概是珊翠亞之安排。這位菲律賓美人，非常和藹可

親，我因不暗佳能相機，船上錯過拍攝相片機會，經過另位菲律賓美

女，教導安排，我這位房間服務，與珊翠亞好友，解釋後，她果然再

給拍攝機會。

她的儲蓄方法，專注於公寓投資，然後一棟一棟出售，當作退休金，

也幫助甥侄晚輩，算是一位財務獨立者。我們就在餐廳門外，等候巴

士，漸漸有當地人，前來候車，巴士小型，也不是很多人使用，確實

讓我體會到地廣人稀，缺乏基楚建設之原因，我在台灣之年代，台灣

已經開發半世紀以上，巴士也是按距離收費，現金交易，沒有她，我

真無法上車，當然也不敢離港口過遠。

海上日三日，我們偶爾相遇自助餐，約好幾次活動，就是我帶她們參

觀船艙設備，兩次免費牛排餐廳招待，還有一次白金級免費酒會，陰

錯陽差，主事不讓她參觀，於是她不願再度受窘，未出席酒會，但兩

人分別兩次，同我享受到郵輪招待。三日後停靠朋塔港，又有故事與

她有關待續。

Disembark at Puerto Chcabuco, Chile/Carlos Pueblo

Disembark at Puerto Chcabuco, Chile/Carlos Pueblo

The ship pushed through the Chilean inner sea whole night and landed

at Puerto Chacabuco of the next Aysen Province, the famous entrance of

Laguna San Rafael National Park, of course, I didn’t dare to make such

adventure of expensive cruise land excursion. I did have my own regular

experience of walking toward the old town, watching a soccer match, and

even accompanied a new acquaintance to a next city on bus.

It was on Sunday and no wonder most of the streets were empty except

a few grocery stores were open for the visitors from the cruise for something

like WiFi connection and some needed supply. I found my toilet location on

a busy highway toward north, a gas station. Some cruise passengers did walk

toward the north and I followed. There was a bay on the left and small hill on

the right with some single dwelling spread around with a pile of log for fire

place which I assumed that the winter was near. I did see a small frame house

on the bay with several aged fishing boats near the end of wood stack connected

to the house. The house had smoke out of the chimney obviously there were

people living in it. It was a nice, quiet, and narrowed bay for the residents to be

in and out for fishing.

I was attracted to a local soccer game on the way. The small soccer field seemed

to be a newly built facility with a good size of shower room for the players. I found

a front seat at the front of a huge observing stand. Both teams were from two

different cities and appeared to be at a soccer season match. At the half time break,

I walked out of the field and resumed my leisure walking toward the north. I found

a fishery laboratory on the bay side for an University, then I saw a couple turning

around and indicated that they had no idea of the further distance to be. I did

follow and return to the second half of the soccer match. There was more audience

and some vehicles parked in front of the entrance. It began to drip from the cloudy sky.

On my way back to the dock, I ran into Lucia of the Brazilian met at the check in room

of Valparaiso, Chile. She was back to the ship and lost her group to the next city of

Coyhaique. She asked me to join her and I agreed. She stopped a small bus returning

to Coyhaique. Her deceased husband was a Chilean; therefore, she was in good command

of Spanish. The bus driver was very kind to guide us to the significant scenery along the

beautiful road, of course, she translated to me accordingly. We stopped in the front of

a restaurant which was her favorite. We could enter, yet it was full and we couldn’t order.

I’ll continue on the next for an interesting visit of the town and also ran into a pretty

program director, Sandra, at a Japanese restaurant while we drank a Japanese beer.

船靠智利查卡布口港/莊峻華

船靠智利查卡布口港/莊峻華

離開蒙特港口一夜，就到艾森林省，船在查卡布口港靠，也是郵輪

小船接駁上岸，然後再由小巴士，送到港口鐵網外，我就開始走路

逛港口老街，先是整齊市街住宅區，有些商業區，但生意稀疏，郵

船乘客打聽網路連線，我則一面習慣性，尋找廁所，終於找到一家

加油站，有一廁所設備，就在大公路口，幾位乘客，相繼北上散步

，想必有美景好看，於是我無疑跟上。這天步徑行程有趣，我參觀

兩局足球賽，參觀一海灣或湖畔大學漁業站，回程有巧遇單行，巴

西露西亞，結夥搭車到北境一小鎮，吃東西又喝啤酒，然後又搭車

回來，小鎮商區規模稍大，也遇到一大群郵輪乘客，包括郵輪節目

部職員，美麗之菲律賓小姐，珊翠亞，能言西班牙語，後來我們在

船上，成為熟識。

 海灣路旁，有一屋舍，停泊一兩艘老舊魚船，屋內生火取暖，青煙

直升屋頂，裊裊上升，這是南美洲秋日時雨季節，另一邊路旁，則

有美麗住家，建築在小山崗，門前堆積火爐用木，想來冬季必冷。

新型足球場，在高崗上，有新穎衛生設備，我更加放心。兩隊青年

，約是來自兩村鎮，有兩位裁判，我就坐在首席台位置，蓋無甚觀

眾也，這時候微雨，掏出疊折雨傘，球賽繼續，直到半場。我走出

球場，繼續北上，，路上多巨樹。

一路標指示之大學，就在海灣畔，是一實驗室，有活水設備，其貌

不揚，我看到有人調頭，我想散步量已足，跟著回頭球場恢復比賽

，觀眾顯著增加，仍是上座。回小鎮老街，巧遇落單之露西雅，她

說同伴三人，搭計程車北上，邀我同行，她有足夠智利披索，於是

她在公路上攔車，攔到一小巴士，回程口伊亥克鎮，這是一美麗之

山城，屋舍井然有序，途經一美麗之辛普森河和鐵橋，著名者為大

監獄地也。司機問她醫藥問題，始知彼為退休醫生，其亡夫為智利

人，故能西語。我們在一餐廳下車，她想吃一著名之南美烘焙肉餅

，餐廳被船上一群芝加哥華人團包上，不再接受客人，於是我們到

隔壁家，也只能購妥後，在公園座椅上食用，然後這位醫生，又想

喝啤酒，這是週日，店面公休，只能找到一家日本餐廳，也是客滿

，我不喝酒可以生活，於是她同意讓我再找雜貨店，仍舊不果，於

是我們再回日本餐廳，我用美金付帳，加上手續費，一杯麒麟啤酒

，約是十二元美元，比船上更貴。我也遇見珊翠亞，和她男友，我

在下次，再介紹露西雅和珊翠亞兩位之因緣際會。

Angie/Carlos Pueblo

Angie/Carlos Pueblo

After boarding to the ship, I always get up to the cafeteria on the 12^th, then

get down to the atrium on the 7^th to see around the hotel office area. An

Italian band was playing on a corner bar and I found a seat. A familiar waitress

appeared collecting coffee cups and wine glasses and she was Angie from another

ship, Jade, whom I met in April, 2016 from Houston to Barcelona, Spain. She was

from Jakarta, Indonesia and was working on the 7^th bar as well. Yong, my brother-

in-law and my companion, was very impressed her co-worker, another young man

from Indonesia as well who greeted him Parche, great uncle in Malay. Both Malaysian

and Indonesian speak Malay. Yong was just turned 55 and retired from the city of

New York. He begged this well-mannered young waiter to call him Abang, meaned

older brother. I have been very impressed with how well trained of the cruise company

to their staff overall. She remembered me and we had had a very good surprise each other.

This bar was different from Jade with another function, coffee shop which provided all

kinds of coffee, so there were three staff working on the station for a small open area

with a platform for the performance of musicians. A male head bar tender, a female

head coffee chef, and her, an assistant waitress to manage the drink delivery and seats.

She can make drink and coffee in case of crowded guests. Very soon, she knew that I came

to see her only because that I was very frugal and only drank free coffee in the café. Yong

at that trip purchased a drink package and got drink free on the international sea and that

was the reason he knew bartenders. On that previous trip, we even got to know the chief

of bartender, a Filipino lady, trained new comers and certified them on the counters.

I had had a coffee drinking lesson from Eugenia of Hong Kong when I was in Frankfurt,

Germany. We went to a popular coffee shop at the old town Frankfurt for a drink of

coffee. I watched the chef, like Sushi chef, to prepare coffee for the busy waiters. She

gave me some idea of milk rich Cappuccino, Caffe Americano, etc. Angie told me that

the cruise coffee shop equipped better than the Starbuck’s. I was amazed when I witnessed

how they prepared coffee and how the clean procedure afterward. She identified what

I drank at home was Expresso. I didn’t have a chance to show her what I learned from

Eugenia about coffee, the pattern of milky Cappuccino, water rinse and brewing coffee, etc.

At Buenos Aires, Argentina, we departed. She was off for that contract and back home to

wait for another contract with another ship in Europe, Spirit, and I continued my stay in

B.A. for a week. I mentioned her to Yong when we chatted about cruise and he remembered

this shy girl with spectacles   from Indonesia.

安姬/莊峻華

安姬/莊峻華

一上船，我就在七層大廳咖啡廳角落聽歌，有位女侍，非常面熟，

原來是印尼來之安姬，她也認出我，去年我們在寶玉號相識，也在

大廳酒吧，我連襟紐約之榮祥兄，馬來西亞人也，與印尼人同屬馬

來語系，無需英語，印尼青年有禮貌，稱呼榮祥伯父，阿邦，榮祥

剛剛退休，五十五，擔當不起，要求他們叫他大哥，怕切，安姬記

得此事，於是我們變得親切，咖啡酒吧非常現代化，許多喝法，價

格昂貴，但是生意興隆。

她的工作就是準備各種咖啡，調酒，端送飲料，和收拾酒杯殘局，有

時甚為忙碌，船上時間特多，於是經常路過打招呼，抑或坐上酒吧高

椅，凝視她們工作，此站有三位，一位是酒師傅，一位是咖啡師傅，

都不需離站，她最年輕資淺，所以端送飲料，收拾殘局，遇兩師傅不

在，她也可以補缺，郵輪有專人訓練調整酒咖啡，然後考試升級任用

，我在寶玉號，認識一位主任，就在七層大廳酒吧訓練練調酒，郵輪

都是酒吧，需要大批酒師，咖啡機均在廚房附設，免費咖啡在十二層

自助餐廳内外。

我在德國遇見一位羅小姐，喝咖啡專門，上過兩次課，於是我窺視她

們沖咖啡，郵輪咖啡店機器，非常新穎，比下美國辛巴克咖啡店，我

看製作義大利可頗奇尼一種牛奶含量高者，咖啡師可以泡出不同對稱

花樣，香港這位羅小姐有有收藏在手機，安姬等人忙碌，而且一杯八

美元，連想看花樣之念頭均無，她說我喝之咖啡為快速，愛克斯普列

所，就是熱水沖泡一氣呵成。

我們在阿根廷布宜諾斯艾利斯港，一起下船，她就飛回雅加達故鄉，

休假幾個月，然後再回歐洲，搭上精神號，我查該號航線，幾乎包括

地中海到北非洲甚是有趣，回家後電話紐約榮祥，他也憶起這位羞怯

之印尼小女孩。

Disembark at Puerto Montt, Chile/Carlos Pueblo

Disembark at Puerto Montt, Chile/Carlos Pueblo

Cruise first stop was Puerto Montt, Chile, a city of 210,000 inhabitants;

however, the ship used its tender services to transfer us to a small fishing

village, then buses were taken to continue shore excursions. It is the gate-

way to Chile’s Lake district and Andes Mountains. I didn’t attempt to reach

the famous Llanquihue and Chilean Mt. Fuji, yet I did visit the old town, its

residential front yard gardens and the small business area.

It was a cloudy fall day with a threat of raining. The garden roses and dalia

were still blooming which were my favorite while travelling. Based on the

size of the flowers, I could easily predict that both climate and moisture were

abundant in this mountain town. The frame houses appeared in age; however,

still lovely. I had taken many photos from outside of the fences for my memory.

Then, I walked into the small old town business district.

I always wonder how the town folks earn their living. I could see many shops of

dry salty fish products. I could identify oysters, claims, some fishes, yet  some

were unknown to me. There were some other home grown dairy products such

as cheese, honey, and jam etc. I late knew that this area used to be the number

two Salmon production in the world attracted many immigrants to work here

including European long time ago. German immigrants help the aborigines to

repel the invading Spanish speaking force from the north. German villages are

one of the scenery destination and even current day Chilean Army honorary

guards still practice the Prussian military march.

A Chinese store clerk in a small vegetable shop was surprised of my visit, she

mentioned that the cold weather was severe here. I was not surprised that she

came here for a new life even though she desperately needed to readjust

herself. I followed the direction of the huge ship offshore and found the spot

of our shuttle service back to the comfortable ship. 

船靠智利蒙特港/莊峻華

船靠智利蒙特港/莊峻華

太陽號駛出巴巴羅伊索港，沿智利內海南向，海道兩岸都是島

嶼峭壁，我們已經進入智利湖泊區，智利領土狹長，首都以北

是砂漠區，以南山脈綿延不絕，湖泊其中，郵輪介紹陸地旅行

，包括一單峰雪山，，酷似的富士山，行程6.5小時，仍然有

許多人購票參加。船靠蒙特港，無深水碼頭，郵輪使用小船接

駁，上岸後，就是村落住家。山村陰雨，街道古舊，房屋泰半

木造，庭院狹小，但有許多草本花卉，像是我最喜愛之大朵玫

瑰和大理花，此時南美洲是秋天，蒙特港潮濕，雨水充足。             

此小老村落附近，有一小規模之鎮集，許多商家，印象深刻者

為水果和鹽漬海產品，都是路邊攤，水果是智利特色，連美國

都大量進口，漁業在蒙特港是大宗，鮭魚產量號稱世界第二，

然而街頭所見鹽漬品，能認出者僅牡蠣，蛤蚌等，還有許多不

知名海產，很像古台灣之港口雜貨店。有家蔬菜店，中國女店

員，我甚好奇，入門詢問，原來從西班牙來幫阿姨，尚不習慣

此地之天冷。我依太陽號海上屹立英姿，走回接駁小碼頭，我

仍覺非常有趣，像是回到六十年前，台灣之海口鄉下。

其實，蒙特港是南智利大城市，人口二十一萬，是湖區安地山

脈之入口，有日耳曼人村落，德人移民曾在南智利，協助原住

民，阻擋智利共和國軍，此為有趣之南美歷史，到現在智利陸

軍衛隊，，仍舊表演十九世紀，傳統普魯士踢正步行進，真正

柏林德軍，則僅持槍行注目禮，接待外國元首。還有那座單峰

雪山，也出現在網路字典上，就在智利最大湖畔。